Published Wines It's wonderful to be back with the second edition of the Alistair Cooper MW Wine Guide. These have been challenging years for many of us, and many projects, including the wine guide, have been put on hold. So, with travel fully restored, it has been an absolute joy to put together this second edition in collaboration with my friends and colleagues from Catad'Or, Pablo Ugarte in tasting and Sofía Le Foulon in editing. It's been great tasting some old favorites and discovering some new ones during the extensive tasting we did for this new edition.

Four years ago, I spoke about the speed of change in Chile and how the industry was progressing quickly and in a positive way. Today I am just as excited and optimistic that this pioneering spirit has continued to flourish and drive the Chilean wine scene forward. There is a real sense of excitement and discovery, of pushing the boundaries both geographically and with experimentation in the vineyard and in the cellar.

One of the things that has really caught my attention is the growing importance and expression of the region and the sense of territory. Now we see a greater importance in the regions, in specific places and vineyards, which is extremely positive. Gone are the days when it was said 'wine is made in the cellaro', and now the emphasis is precisely that 'the cellar is an extension of the vineyard'.

In this sense, we have observed a growing emphasis on drinkability, purity and precision in the cellar. The trend towards more moderate and respectful extraction continues, so much so that some winemakers now refer to it as 'infusion' rather than extraction. Experimentation with different containers (both new and used), such as concrete eggs, jars and foudres, is adding diversity and options for winemakers. In addition, we continue to see less reliance on new barrels in the cellar, which for me is positive.

As for the specific grape varieties, it's great to see certain developments. In the past, I was not convinced that Carménère in Chile was suitable for producing single-varietal wines, seeing it more as an important and significant partner for Cabernet. However, with a deeper understanding of site selection and vineyard management, harvest timing, and careful winemaking, I am happy to admit that I was wrong. There are excellent examples of Carménère in the making that are quickly delivering on the promise many have hoped for.

The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir continue to impress. Limarí and Malleco are regions that show a particular and stimulating condition for Chardonnay in Chile, both with completely different but equally attractive styles. In fact, Limarí can rightly be considered a global example of a world-class Chardonnay. Pinot Noir is famous for being complicated and whimsical, however in this case we see regionality expressed, Leyda, Casablanca and Malleco each having their own unique styles. I remain delighted with the Syrah in Chile, which perhaps more than any other grape seems to express its place very well, be it Elqui, Apalta, San Antonio or Casablanca; this is a grape that tempts and excites.

The revitalization of the southern regions continues apace. With climate change looming, there are certain advantages to looking south. Water scarcity (due to drought and archaic water laws) is a real problem, and the southern regions offer greater water availability and the opportunity for rainfed farming, obviously this is a somewhat simplistic view, but it should be considered. The revival of these traditional wine-producing areas has been one of the most exciting developments in recent years. We have seen an increase in small producers at an incredible rate, as well as large producers looking south, embracing traditional techniques and appreciating the incredible wine heritage.

However, there are also deep concerns regarding the forestry industry and its role in forest fires in these southern regions. Again, in 2023, Itata was hit by terrible fires that destroyed vineyards and left many with no harvest for this vintage. There is a entrenched problem here, and the lack of sufficient regulation remains an alarming concern for many. Unfortunately, there appears to be little progress toward fixing these issues, and it is only a matter of time before another disastrous event occurs.

I have been talking for a long time about the need for you There is a greater associativity in Chile, and although there is still a lot of work to be done, things are certainly moving in the right direction. Before, some of the larger wineries seemed to be collaborating with small producers, but it often gave the impression of a more marketing-oriented project. However, there now seems to be a real sense of community and working together. The importance of this cannot be underestimated, especially given the consolidation that the Chilean industry has achieved in recent years. The industry seems to be more sensitive to building a sustainable social and environmental future, which should be applauded.

Another positive development has been the increased participation of wine consumers in Chile, specifically younger consumers and especially in the cities. There are many wine fairs, courses, events and wine bars compared to 10 or 20 years ago. This also ties in with the burgeoning food scene. There is a group of young professionals with a passion for wine who are creating a thriving wine community and network. This goes hand in hand with the younger generation of winemakers wanting to share their knowledge, as well as traveling further afield to experience and learn from others. Highlighting the presence of Catad'Or, the most influential international wine competition in Latin America, which brings together wines and experts from all over the world in Chile, is undoubtedly a great contribution to the sector. The present is very promising in Chile and the future looks even more auspicious.


Alistair Cooper MW

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96 puntos Red Field Blend
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96 puntos Carmín de Peumo
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95 puntos Cornellana Volcano Sedimentario Cabernet Franc
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95 puntos Don Melchor
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95 puntos Amelia Pinot Noir
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95 puntos Los Inquietos 1 Field Blend
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95 puntos Silencio Cabernet Sauvignon
2018

95 puntos Amelia Chardonnay
2021